Vale de Moses

Vale de Moses is a remote off-grid yoga retreat nestled in the forested foothills of Portugal's Serra da Estrela mountains, founded by Andrew and Vonetta Winter in 2012 after a life-changing family journey that began in 2007. The story reads like something out of a novel: Andrew and Vonetta, burned out from their fast-paced London lives, embarked on a year-long motor-home odyssey through Southern Europe with their children Joshua and Eloise and their golden retriever Moses. Six months into the trip, their dog led them to an abandoned 250-year-old farm in the Amieira valley that shared his name, a coincidence the family took as divine guidance. They purchased the property and spent the next five years painstakingly restoring four Xisto stone cottages by hand, often without electricity, using traditional Portuguese building methods with clay, lime, stone, and wood.

The retreat opened its doors in 2012 and quickly gained international acclaim. In 2017, National Geographic named it one of the top five retreats in Europe, with additional recognition from Forbes, The Guardian, The Telegraph, Yoga Journal, and OmYoga Magazine as one of the world's best retreats. Today, the center welcomes over 500 guests annually from more than 60 countries, though it has evolved from the Winters running their own retreats to primarily hosting visiting teachers and facilitators who bring groups to the property. After 13 years of leading their own programs, Andrew and his family now focus on maintaining the sanctuary while welcoming diverse teachers, from Anna Clifford of Bermuda to Ilias Kousis teaching Forrest Yoga, Susana Tavares leading Kundalini retreats, and sisters Gretchen and Leah hosting their annual five-night yoga weeks.

The property spans five hectares of mountainous terrain at approximately 790 meters elevation, featuring hand-carved forest paths, two flowing streams with cascading natural pools, a glass-and-wood yoga shala that appears to float over the valley, and accommodation ranging from private farmhouse bedrooms to shared stone cottages and glamping belle tents nestled under strawberry fruit trees (medronheiras). The setting is profoundly isolated, no road noise, minimal cell reception, just the symphony of waterfalls, birdsong, and wind through pines. The retreat operates March through November, with belle tents stored during winter months.

Andrew, who studied sports and business at Leeds University before meeting Vonetta (an anthropology student at LSE), comes from a family of social justice campaigners and gardeners. His parents were teachers and activists dedicated to equality and community empowerment, values that infuse every aspect of Vale de Moses. The food program, entirely vegetarian and predominantly vegan, is renowned among guests, with chefs preparing Ayurveda-inspired meals using produce from their own gardens, neighbors' farms, and local greengrocers in Oleiros. Tragically, in September 2024, Vonetta chose to end her life, a decision she made public in a blog post about seeking a more beautiful and just world. Andrew and the family continue her vision, supported by an extended team that guests describe as warm, caring, and deeply committed to the retreat's ethos of creating spaces where those who don't feel safe or belong can find refuge in nature.